Betarocker Breitwangfluh


Yeeeahhh weekend,
let’s go to the Breitwangfluh. It’s again early in the morning when I met Nikolay Primerov. Our idea was to drive up with the care as high as possible. But in fact, we could only drive some meters and then we destroyed the chains…. Bad luck, but this didn’t stop us. We puted on our skis and walked up to the wall. After 1.5 hours we arrived by the base of the Betarocker.

Betarocker / Breitwangfluh

Today is realy cold, -15°C, the ice is hard, so hard that I get pumped in the first “easy” pitch. Nikolay is following fast and get directly into the second pitch… After 1 houer we reached the big ledge. I make me ready for the battle!!!! Thin ice, one bolt, steep ice, let’s rock it…

Nikolay Primerov Rock itThe first part of the mixed line was okey, then I was a little bit scared. On the top of the pillar was a big crack, the last protection is some meters under me. But there is no way to turn, so I climbded…

Ice PillarAfter some hard moves I could pass the ice roofs and climbded on. In fact the biggest problem was, that I was thinking in the middle of this crux is coming an anchor with bolts. I don’t know if I missed the bolts or if there are realy no bolts… The conclusion is, I climbded 60m, with 5 ice screws, and had to make the anchor with my two ice axes…… Stupid I know, but yeah what else could I do (except taking more ice screws!!!). Nikolay was following realy fast and with a lot of motivation he went on the last steep part of this beautiful line. The ice was bad and he had to manage a lot of “tub ice” (Röhreneis ?). But finaly we arrived at the top after only 4 hours of climbing and started to rappel.

Rappel / BetarockerThanks buddy

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